About DIY Wind Generator Blades

Using PVC tubes in the construction of DIY Wind Generator Blades was originally suggested by Mr. Abe Connolly. For accessibility, durability, efficiency and cost-effectiveness, this is the optimum material for this purpose. “Schedule 80″ is the PVC piping of choice in this situation and is available in hardware stores or at plastic suppliers.

Highly functional blades can be cut from “Schedule 80″ pipe having an 8″ diameter and 24″ length. It’s easy to cut using a saber-saw. Sturdy pieces of material with a natural curve are the result and these are able to make a generator turn using straight-line blowing winds.

Important points to remember before starting: lay out your plan in detail, determine blade-length by knowing the wind-mill’s diameter, make available a work bench, saw, wood-plane, clamp, etc. Medium-bladed saber-saws make nice clean cuts although sawing will take some time and make mounds of dust. Always wear work-clothes and safety-glasses!

CUT: The 24′ long piping can be clamped onto a workbench to secure it in place. Draw three lines, 5 1/4 inches apart along the length of the pipe. Cutting along these guidelines will give you 3 equal strips with a built-in curve.

Using your saber-saw, make two blades from each of the three curved strips – resulting in six blades; however, you will need only three for each wind-mill. The easiest way to do this is to clamp one strip to the workbench, cut it diagonally from one corner to the middle point, flip it over and continue cutting from the opposite corner to the middle. Round one end of each blade, or saw it to a chiseled point, to achieve a “blade” look. Leave the other end as is.

SHAPE: To transport optimum wind to the generator, the lengths of the blades ought to be sanded into an air foil, also called a “wing-shape”. You will want the lead edge of the blade to become roundish and the trailing-edge to have a sharp taper. The more care you give to this step, the greater the efficiency and quietness. Leave 2″ at the unfinished end of the pipe without sanding so that you can drill holes for bolts. The blades will be well fastened to the generator with two 1/4 inch bolts.

FINISH: The blade surface should be coated, or “finished” properly for reliability, performance and endurance. The blade base, or “root”, of the blade needs a thick coat of highly durable laminate for strength, and a long, functional life. Coating the bolts will also increase their grip.

Sprint IPT leads the market in primer-fill applications for wind-mill blade-coating. Sold under the name of “rep-prep”, using it as a proxy-resin, dry-infusion or as reinforcement is highly recommended. Sprint’s products are cost-effective and offer a full guarantee against air pockets, gaps and “voids”. A typical surface-finish consists of a gel- or fiber-primer with a coat of paint to follow. When you are satisfied that your PVC blades are sealed and fastened well, rainbow colored or plain white paint on them will reflect your savings and your care for our world.

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